The 3 main things I’ve learned from outside climbing are: Governors Stable seems to be an exception because of the terrible footwork. Update: 5/2017 - Sent several V7s and a “V8” outside in a session or two, so not a very big disparity between outside and inside for me. Most V8s go in a session or two, V9s in 1-5+ sessions, and V10s are all 3-5+ session projects. At the current juncture, I’ve sent 70+ V8s, 25+ V9s, 4 V10s and 1 “V11.” I haven’t really bothered counting V8s and V9s closely after I sent more than 10, so it’s just an estimate. If anything, it seems to be middling in the V6-7+ range but a bit soft in the V0-5 range. I’ve sent multiple V9s when I go to other gyms, so it’s not that my current gym (Earth Treks) is soft or hard or anything. Weaknesses: Balance-y slab, crimps, pain tolerance, sweaty fingers □Ĭurrently, I’m about in the range of sending 90-100% V8, 40-50% V9, and 0-20% V10s indoors.Moderate: Heel hooks, body positioning, dynos, slopers, overhangs.Strengths: Pinches, compression, thuggy moves, stemming, crossovers, lockoffs.I’ve always been able to do about 1-4ish one arm chinups (OACs) the whole time while climbing, dipping at least 90+ lbs for 5 repetitions, weighted pistols +50% bodyweight, at least 1-3+ freestanding HSPUs, 10+ weighted hanging leg raises, and so on. It is what it is.Ĭoming into climbing, I had and have a very strong strength background from training and Overcoming Gravity. Maybe if I had been climbing 4 years straight I might’ve had better progress because a lot of time has been spent regaining hand strength. Technically about 5 years, but I’ve have several months and weeks of breaks because of various things such as physical therapy internships, vacations, traveling, missions, etc. I’ve been climbing for about 4ish years now. So much older than your typical climber who wants to send hard. Generally, I tend to use the equivalent of 2s isometric = 1 repetition, which I discuss in Prilepin Tables for bodyweight strength Isometric and Eccentric exercises. Many of the protocols that are being used currently such holds in the 7-10s range for hangboard trend can be traced back to there or Eva Lopez’s work as well. The first edition of Overcoming Gravity has been use by many climbers, including Steve Maisch’s articles on isometrics on hangboard for climbing. Hence, I’m not your typical “random” person that comes into climbing from nothing or maybe another sports background but no knowledge of systematic strength and conditioning. I’m not an expert on climbing, but I do have a good background on strength and conditioning and bodyweight strength training from Overcoming Gravity, gymnastics, and parkour coming into bouldering. Update 3: NEW 7.5 year assessment is out! Last update: Oct 2017 Update: My 5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard has been posted. This post will be mainly about bouldering, strength training, and hangboard and how it relates to bouldering performance. I wanted to write down some of my thoughts on climbing from my perspective.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |